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I must admit I approached this trip with some hesitation. Taipei has never topped my travel list, primarily because while it shares similarities with Hong Kong, it feels less developed in certain respects. Ultimately, the trip reaffirmed my preference for Hong Kong’s vibrant landscape and gave me a new perspective on why some friends declined to join the group I eventually traveled with.
My departure date coincided with the Easter holidays, and despite the many flights available, the fares were quite high. I eventually settled on EVA Air with high hopes, but I have to say I’m a bit disappointed. Compared to my past experiences, China Airlines—which also lands at Terminal 1 in Taoyuan—offers a more pleasant crew and a much more up-to-date movie selection. I don’t see myself returning to Taiwan in the coming decade, but if I do, I’ll definitely choose China Airlines over EVA. Should I blame my friend for steering me toward this decision? Sigh.
Despite Terminal 2 being newer, I found that the logistics of getting out of the airport were much smoother at Terminal 1.
I was surprised to find that I relied entirely on cash for this trip, especially when visiting places like Wulai, Jiufen, Shifen, Beitou, and Yangmingshan. While I used cash to top up my EasyCard, many shops in these more remote areas still prefer physical currency. I also discovered that while the airport sells standard cards, more “fancy” versions of the EasyCard are available at a premium in convenience stores. While the design didn’t matter much to me, they would certainly make great souvenirs for other tourists.
The exchange rate for HKD to TWD has improved slightly, reaching around 3.89 at the airport. To make the most of this, I used a debit card to book my hotels online, which helped minimise overseas transaction fees compared to a standard credit card.
The experience of hauling luggage through the Taipei MRT and the Airport Express stations left me with a vivid—and exhausting—memory. It made me quite indecisive about where to stay upon arrival. Eventually, I picked a more unusual spot – Xindian. Not only is there a direct bus from the airport to the Xindian station, but it’s also a perfect hub for excursions to Wulai and Thousand Island Lake.
Luggage transfer services are really taking off in Taiwan now. I recommended the service to my friend; while the fee is slightly higher than in Japan, it provides great convenience when your journey involves multiple transfers.
I personally found that public transport in Taipei still has room for improvement. We could hardly get on the bus to Wulai from Xindian; luckily, we lined up 20 minutes before departure. I was also unable to board the bus from Beitou to the Yangmingshan flower viewing spot because the buses were so small and infrequent. Even on a weekday, the crowds were unexpectedly massive.
When I tried to transfer at the Yangmingshan bus terminal, it was impossible to board as no passengers got off to make room. Frustrated, I found that taxi drivers were charging flexible rates instead of using the meter. It’s clear why so many tourists choose organised tours for excursions to places like Jiufen, Shifen, and Yangmingshan.
Car Rental with Driver
We eventually decided to hire a private car with a driver for our excursion to Jiufen and Shifen. During my research, I found that some companies offer rather unusual add-ons, such as dedicated photo-taking services using either a mobile phone or a professional camera. These options seemed a bit trivial to me.
Ultimately, I went with a company recommended by a friend that didn’t require a deposit. For an 8 to 9-hour tour around the Taipei area, the price typically ranges from 5,000 to 6,500 TWD. Interestingly, if you require a driver with basic English skills, there is often a surcharge of 1,000 to 1,200 TWD. It’s also worth noting that car seats for infants or toddlers usually come at an additional cost of about 200 TWD per seat.
I then realised that car rental with a driver is quite affordable in Beitou when I saw the poster in the hotel.
MRT
The Taipei MRT has become noticeably busier than it was two years ago. With seven new lines under construction, the government’s expansion plan is truly ambitious.
A key strategic move is the ‘Yellow’ Circular Line, designed to intersect multiple radial lines and significantly enhance connectivity. Looking at the metro map, it makes perfect sense to link the Xindian Line to Taipei Zoo, a loop-based approach that mirrors the Yamanote Line in Tokyo.
EasyCard
An EasyCard is a must-have when traveling in Taiwan. It can be used for public transport as well as ordering food and making purchases at convenience stores and supermarkets. I loaded NT$1,500 for my seven-day journey. I didn’t really care about the design of the card, but my friends took it quite seriously and spent time looking for specific designs at convenience stores.
I stayed at a few different hotels during this seven-day trip. For the first night, I chose the New California Hotel in Xindian to prepare for an excursion the next day. It’s just a one-minute walk from the MRT station, which was great.
I then switched to the Miramar Garden Hotel, a wonderful 4-star property, for two nights. This gave me a chance to relax and enjoy the facilities, like the swimming pool and sauna, before my friend’s family joined him. I particularly like its innovative idea of having a self-luggage locker area. It is neat and safe.
Once my friend’s family moved to an Airbnb on Chifeng Street, I moved nearby to the Hub Hotel Zhongshan. It is a no-frills hotel with a relaxing common area on the second floor; I found it very convenient for catching the airport bus to Taoyuan. The shower is equipped with a sauna function, which seems to be a popular amenity in some Taipei hotels. One notable detail is the wooden paneling installed in the shower ceiling. I did not find the swirling jet functions to be strong enough in the “jacuzzi jet bath”.
Last but not least, I spent my final day at Beitou Hot Spring Hotel, where I found the private room to be nicer than the public sauna area. The overall design is odd; while the outdoor sitting area is lovely, I couldn’t actually enjoy a private bath with the curtain open, as the fences don’t fully block the view from the garden. This meant that people might have been able to see into the bath area.
Huashan 1914 Creative Park
The Huashan 1914 Creative Park is just an 18-minute walk from the Miramar Garden Hotel. Since it was a weekday with non-stop rain, it was the perfect time to check out the park’s stores and exhibits.
From what I observed, some are chain stores while others appear to be independently owned. Many shops have wonderful selections that make for great gifts or souvenirs. We spent an hour in a store selling DIY crafts, where customers purchase various parts and can assemble them right in the shop with help from the assistants. It’s a great concept and reasonably priced.
I ended the visit with a comforting Japanese-style set meal for a late lunch before picking up my luggage to transfer to the next hotel.
Jiufen, Shifen
A typical one-day tour includes Jiufen, Shifen, and photo stops at the Golden Waterfall and Yin Yang Sea. While group tours are organized daily, hiring a private driver is a more flexible option for groups of four or more.
According to our local driver, because of the remote location, villagers of Jiufen’s remote location top up abundant supplies every time going out of town. Jiufen (九份) translates to ‘nine portions,’ originating from a time when the village consisted of just nine families, whereas Shifen (十份) is the name of the area.
The waterfall at Shifen is fantastic. There’s something about it that feels incredibly refreshing and the beautiful environment were simply cleansing my mind.
Before entering Jiufen, the route passes the Yin Yang Sea and the Golden Waterfall. The Yin Yang Sea is named for the area where blue water meets gold, a phenomenon caused by mineral sediments from nearby gold mines. The factory buildings facing the sea are now abandoned and no longer in operation.
Just a minute from the Ying Yang Sea is the Golden Waterfall.
The water appears “golden” because the rocks forming the backdrop have turned golden-brown due to the same mineral runoff from the mines.
A short 10-minute drive from the Golden Waterfall brought me to Jiufen. This village is very touristy, but its traditional alleys are beautifully lined with red lanterns, and some of the buildings offer breathtaking views of the mountains. I wish I had more time to sit down in a restaurant, enjoying the view.
Peace Island, Keelung
I went to Yehliu when I was very young. Today, this geopark is filled with fascinating rock formations created by weathering and marine erosion. The government has implemented restrictions to prevent tourists from getting too close to the “Queen’s Head,” which has suffered increasing damage over the years.There are several coastlines in Taiwan where you can find similar rock formations. I suspect the mushroom rocks are of larger scale at Heping Island (Peace Island) in Keelung. At least this geopark is more peaceful and less touristy.
Bitan
It is said that this river area has been forgotten over the years. However, on a beautiful day, it is a lovely spot for a leisurely walk, a bike ride, or a meal by the water.
There are so many hiking routes in the Xindian area. Following suggestions from a few blogs, I took the Green Mountain Route to the top of Hemei Mountain. Though it is only 153 meters high, it is high enough to see Taipei 101 and a fantastic view of the river. After crossing the Bitan Suspension Bridge, simply follow the signs and choose between the Blue Waterfront Line and the Green Mountain Line.
The steps leading up the mountain seem endless, though they are relatively easy. I even saw an elderly hiking group adventuring up the trails; the oldest person I met was over 90 years old! It took about half an hour to reach the top and enjoy the great views—a perfect morning workout.
The older I get, the more I find myself preferring bridges over waterfalls. The Bitan Suspension Bridge leads you toward hotels that overlook the entire scenic area.
Wulai and Beitou
Many locals take a day trip to Wulai, as it is a little over an hour from Taipei City and just a 40-minute bus ride from Xindian. By the time Bus 849 arrives in Xindian, it is often already half full.
There is a stark contrast between Wulai and Beitou, though both are famous for their hot spring experiences. Beitou feels like a small city, featuring a modern public library, the Thermal Valley sightseeing spot, a lineup of upscale hot spring hotels, and even chain stores.
In contrast, Wulai offers a natural, village-like atmosphere where stalls and hot spring accommodations center around Wulai Old Street. Most of the hot spring facilities are housed in modest one- or two-story buildings.
Reaching Beitou is easy via the New Beitou MRT line. However, standing for over half an hour on a bus along winding roads to Wulai is a totally different experience. After all, Wulai was originally a village of the indigenous Atayal people. While the waterfall is famous, it isn’t massive. The tramway in Wulai is tailored for families, but I enjoyed the 15-minute ride a lot. The section connecting Wulai Station to Waterfall Station is called the Lover’s Trail, which can be completed in about 30 minutes.
Wulai
Beitou
New Beitou MRT & Nung Chan Monastery
Yangmingshan
Yangmingshan is the closest national park to Taipei, offering fantastic views of cherry blossoms, calla lilies, and seasonal flowers, as well as great hiking trails.
In April, calla lilies are in full bloom across Bamboo Lake (Zizhuhu). I had a rough plan to photograph a few spots in Yangmingshan; however, I must admit my mission failed. I didn’t foresee the massive crowds of visitors and locals all trying to board the small number 9 bus, which runs infrequently.
I hiked to the visitor center regardless and managed to take a cab to see calla lilies. I decided to skip the private gardens—which charge an admission fee—as I just wanted an ice cream and could see quite a few flowers from the surrounding area. Many locals spend the day there admiring the flowers up close or even picking some to take home.
While it is the most accessible national park in Taipei, I have yet to see it at its most beautiful due to the crowds.
Dihua Street
As it is one of the oldest areas in Taipei, the streets are full of historic shophouses and nice restaurants. It is similar to the Sheung Wan and Sai Ying Pun areas in Hong Kong, but here, all the shops are housed in charming, historic buildings. The area offers a great selection of souvenirs and is a good spot to have a snack or lunch. It was about a half-hour walk from where I stayed in Taipei City via the night market.
Taipei is evolving with more energetic shops and cafés, and the infrastructure and public transport are steadily improving. It is also perfectly safe to travel there alone. Since I live in a city, urban destinations don’t usually appeal to me as much as the countryside; however, I hope this city continues to thrive with even more attractions in the near future.
Let me know any other places it’s worth visiting in Taiwan.