Towards the end of 2022, I was so happy to fly again after being “locked down” by many travel restrictions in Hong Kong. I did not fly long-haul for many years, so it would be an exciting holiday which I was looking for, especially without the worries of work calls.
There was no doubt anxiety was there when every corner of the world underwent significant changes and evolved so much in recent years. Some shops were shut down or understaffed. Fewer flights I could choose from at a more pricy rate. Definitely a lot of things to unlearn and relearn. Why did I need to apply for a special eTA? My passport should be VISA-free for entering New Zealand. Sorry, it is a change of rules, and the Authority said, “please pay an extra HK$250 for visiting us.”
There are no longer direct flights from Hong Kong to Christchurch or Queenstown anymore, at least for a few years more. Sorry mate, you had to go through Auckland, and the connection time was not fun. Bear with it if you truly want to fly. Empty your pocket to pay off the expensive tickets to get on the plane. Please remember only one suitcase was allowed for a two-week holiday, so there is no space for souvenirs since I had to pack both summer and winter clothes, for springtime in New Zealand. COVID test kits were a must in 2022, too.
Nevertheless, I conquered all these post-COVID travel hurdles. Oh YEAH, I had great fun on this secret island.
If you can read Chinese, check out my Kiwiland page here. Or read below for this no-frill travel guide with some tips dedicated by a local Kiwi.
Flights
Delay is still uncommon throughout 2022 and early 2023. I did not want to risk catching the domestic flight in just 2 hours. After all, I did not fly long-distance for a decade. Auckland’s domestic and international terminals require a bus transfer. Unless you are a local, you will not risk getting lost with an attempt of walking to the domestic terminal.
The best way to go to New Zealand from Hong Kong is to opt for Air New Zealand or Qantas Airway. I picked Air New Zealand as the prices were similar, and it seemed a safe choice.
There were around 2-3 connecting flight options per day. Some connecting flights were 12 hours apart, and some were 1-2 hours, giving me very few options. I would have wanted to take a trip for more than 2 weeks, but the last thing I would do was staying at the airport for 12 hours.
All Hong Kong SAR passport holders have to apply for ETA even though HKSAR passports should be VISA-free for New Zealand. If you are an Aussie holding an Australian passport, lucky you, you are a good friend of Kiwis, no ETA is required. Check out the official website for changes in immigration policy before planning your trip.
With the travel restrictions eliminated, now you can enjoy the better fare. I paid almost double the normal fare, but the plane was not full, and I had the comfort of enjoying two seats or even three seats.
For a long-haul challenge like this, I found a bit of physical and psychological comfort when the flight was less packed. Luckily I also didn’t come across any fussy passengers for the 12-hour journey. So thank god, it was a pleasant flight, and the money was well paid.
Shops in both terminals of Auckland were open, especially at the domestic airport. Auckland Airport has numerous flights connecting to Hamilton, Wellington, Tauranga, New Plymouth, Christchurch, Dunedin, Nelson, Queenstown, Timaru, and Invercargill. I was amazed by how fast the Island resumed traffic in just a few months.
The connecting bus is located right at the door of the international terminal and the domestic one. Just to be careful, I almost made the mistake of catching an InterCity bus to get to another city at the airport, so I am sure you can plan to catch a bus to another big city from the airport.
Flight delay is still common in early 2023, so be prepared for it and allow more time for transit.
Customs
All passengers have to go through customs before taking a connecting flight. The international and domestic terminals are connected by shuttle bus.
Kiwis take it seriously to prevent the import of honey and any risky items. Spare an hour to get through customs.
Take a photo of any chocolates or sweets if you plan to bring any and show them to a customs officer who should let you go and ask you to put the luggage to the X-ray belt. I had additional footwear in my suitcase, so I picked the declaration queue.
The queuing time for declaration and nothing to declare was almost the same, the Authority considers many things risky, check the list before you fly.
Sim cards
Many shops in Christchurch Airport are closed around 5-6 pm. Therefore I did not purchase the sim card from the Klook website. Vodafone sim cards can be purchased at the Duty-Free Shop right after you got off the plane at Auckland Airport. The customer representative will change the sim card and activate the card for you.
The 2Gb sim card is valid for one month at NZ$29. A local phone number comes with the card, adding great convenience as some Kiwis are not familiarise with using a smartphone. Some mountains do not have data reception as well.
I got lost in the intersection after taking a bus home. Luckily this mobile number saved my day as my friend set a crazy privacy rule and disallowed me to call him via Telegram.
Budget and Food
Now is the perfect time to go to New Zealand as Hong Kong dollars and US dollars are strong. Compared to travelling to Canada and to Europe, general food price is reasonable in New Zealand.
I wanted to have as much chocolate milk, tangelos, yogurt, coffee, and avocados as I could. The white wine is super crisp, fresh, and inexpensive. Any wine lover can drink Riesling like water. Beers did not impress me a lot.
Prices for public transport are comparable to that of Canadian trains. Many of the museums are free. Hiking or enjoying a lake view doesn’t cost a thing.
Attractions such as hot springs, ballooning, jet boat, or airplane tours are always optional. Affluent tourists prepare to pay handsomely for excursions to do star-glazing or check out the glaciers.
The standard of living on the South Island is lower than that of the North Island. Restaurants are easy to find in the city centre. Many coffee shops are closed as early as 5 pm. Supermarkets are open around 9 pm. The prices below are for reference only.
- A cup of latte, flat white, or cappuccino at NZ$5, tax included
- 500g yoghurt at supermarkets starting from NZ$6
- pastry at the bakery starting from NZ$7
- sandwiches starting from NZ$13
Packaging a sandwich for lunch may be a good option if you would like to save some expenses. I sometimes bring a salad for having lunch by the river or in a park. There are tons of fast food or decent restaurants in Rivermarket in Christchurch, covering almost every cuisine. A plate of Malaysian satay with rice costs NZ$16, and drinks are at additional costs. Want a cheaper meal? Go to McDonald, it’s not everywhere though. The one at the airport only accepts Debit cards or credit cards.
Many towns have their Saturday markets. I love the food stalls they have for hot dogs, fried noodles, or steamed buns. The Agricultural Show has a lot of delicatessens that I am willing to queue up for almost half an hour for good snacks.
Dining in regular restaurants starts at NZ$80 for two. Better restaurants charge NZ$100 or above for two. The quality of its fast food is not too bad. Food is having a lot of flavour like in many Western countries.
Working-class supermarkets include Park’nSave and FourSquare. Countdown is equivalent to regular supermarkets such as Wellcome and Park n Shop in Hong Kong. Fresh Choice has a middle-class feel.
No tax exemption for tourists for any shopping items. I still recommend stocking up tea bags, biscuits, and chocolates and bringing them home as souvenirs.
Transport
I stayed at my friend’s place in the suburban area of Christchurch where I can walk to New Brighten Beach in half an hour. But it’s not a very pleasant neighbour. I was so shocked to hear the news reporting a murder case nearby during my stay, so I dared not walk too far by myself.
The bus is very safe. It takes about 20 minutes to Bus Exchange and the bus timetable is reliable most of the time. The bus app is not that useful, so there is no need to download the app.
The search function online can help you find the connecting buses from the departure location to the destination. But it won’t show up the names of all stops on the route. Expand the map on the page to find the exact bus stop on a specific route. I got off at Bus Exchange and walked to sightseeing spots, saving my time by checking out exactly where I should hop off. The city centre is small enough to walk around to most attractions.
During my travels, the bus fare was half-priced as a COVID measure. Starting from February 2023, you can only need to pay NZ$2 if travelling with a MetroCard. The regular fare is NZ$4. You can apply for the MetroCard at Bus Exchange, but it’s only worth doing so if you are staying for over a week.
Accommodation
I basically book two-bedroom apartments which could be good for 3 – 4 persons, for most locations outside Christchurch, so my friend and I could enjoy our privacy.
The apartment costs around 1,000 – 1,200 HK dollars. My friend is a happy driver and does not mind going an extra mile for a comfortable spot, so we didn’t stay at touristy places like Lake Tekapo or Wanaka, but Twizel which is a mid-point to Mt. Cook and the beautiful lakes.
I highly recommend the farm cottage in Twizel, where you could enjoy great views of Mt. Cook right from the kitchen. It can be a wonderful retirement home where I could stay one day. Many of the houses we stayed in had heat or electric blankets, so low temperatures at night aren’t a problem, but Arthur’s Pass is truly cold.
Book accommodation early at Arthur’s Pass if you plan for a hike there. Very few accommodation choices nearby, and there is only one small cafe which is closed at night. It opens at 8 am for breakfast which is a blessing for everyone to have a hot drink.
Weather
Enjoy abundant sunlight towards the end of the year in the South Hemisphere. The weather report is excellent and accurate. It details how many layers of clothes you should wear and how long it takes to dry your clothes. The allergen index, road conditions, and even the surfing or yachting index can be found on the Observatory website.
There is a huge difference in temperatures between daytime and nighttime. The strength of the wind and its direction also affect the actual temperature. I could feel the cold at 20 °C when it’s very windy.
Sightseeing
Day trips are easy, to places such as New Brighten, Lyttelton, and Sumner. Going to beautiful rivers in Waimakariri and Ashley are not far, there is even a lovely swimming pool in Rangiora after checking out the rivers.
A road trip is more ideal for going to popular sightseeing destinations including Tekapo, Wanaka, Mt. Cook and Queenstown.
| Day 1 | Arrived around 5 pm. Had a walk in New Brighton and enjoyed the sunset in the neighbourhood |
| Day 2 | Took bus no 5 to Bus Exchange. City walk to Botanic Gardens, Hayley park, contemporary art museums, department store, Victoria Square, Avon river, Rivermarket Moon and star glazing at home |
| Day 3 | Transitional Cathedral, Christchurch Arts Centre、Cantebury Museum |
| Day 4 | A day trip to Waimakariri river, a hiking track near Ashley river, followed by swimming in a pool in Rangiora. Going back via Kaiapoi which was impacted by earthquakes |
| Day 5 | Agricultural Show in Christchurch Shuttle bus and bus no 5 home |
| Day 6 | Saturday market in New Brighton, hiking in Sumner, getting ready for excursions |
| Day 7 | Heading to Lake Tekapo with break-taking views of Tasman mountains Passing through Lake Pukaki and hiking track at Mt. Cook, sunset with a background of Mt. Cook Accommodation @Twizel |
| Day 8 | Wanaka, my friend attempting bodyboarding in River Hewea Accommodation @Twizel |
| Day 9 | Heading Arthur’s Pass and looking for muffins on the way Passing through Fairlie, Geraldine, Mayfield, Mt. Somers, and Mt. Hutt before reaching Arthur’s Pass keas chasing me 🤪 Accommodation @Arthur’s Pass |
| Day 10 | Passing through Moana to go to Punakaiki Found a fantastic pink church in Greymouth Accommodation @Charleston |
| Day 11 | Returning back to Churchurch via Westport, Reefton, Spring Junction, Lewis Pass, Culverden, Waikari and Amberley |
| Day 12 | Yum cha at Midnight Shanghai in Rivermarket in the city centre Going to Akaroa Accommodation @Akaroa |
| Day 13 | Akaroa, Little River (found a vase for my friend)、Birdlings Flat (nice stones), Lincolns and Riccarton |
| Day 14 | Early flight home |
New Brighton
New Brighton Beach is just a 10-minute drive from where my friend lives. Water is still cold in late spring, and not very warm in the summer, unlike beaches in Asia. Few people had the courage to swim in such cold water. Facing the huge Pacific Ocean, the water has lovely waves for surfing. We can see some mussels at the bottom of the pier, but the waves are too strong to access them.
There is a small hot spring close to the beach with a hefty admission fee. The fences are supposed to give guests some privacy but block the view of the ocean. It is a small, unattractive town. The ocean stands out among all the shops nearby. The Saturday market is a blessing, giving a little bit of excitement with performances, puppet shows, stores, and food trucks.
I love the idea of food trucks as one has to drive a long way to get good Italian bread or German sausages in New Zealand.
Waimakari river
Waimakari river is one of the longest rivers in Canterbury. While our destination was Ashley river, we had a stop here. My friend is good at skimming rocks. I am skilled at throwing rocks into the bottom of the riverbed.
So after lesson 101, I surely gained the idea of picking the right rocks and skimming at the right angle, it just did not help me elevate my skill at all.
Ashley river
I was pleased to get on the track by the river as it seemed like an easy one. I expected to see the waterfall after an hour’s walk. I packed a tangelo and snacks and expected to find a good spot to sit down and enjoy the views of the waterfall.
However, my friend suggested walking up a mountain to test my hiking level. Well, I could see no track but occasionally tiny hiking marks on dying trees. The grounds are fall of loose rocks and withered branches. We could not see much beyond the slope and trees, but some sky.
Ashley Gorge Track
I told myself I could do it. I put my jacket in my backpack and was ready for the challenge. The more I walked up, the harder it was. There were no directional signs. The ground was so slippery. My friend did not know the direction of the waterfall at all.
After a 10-minute climb, followed by another 10 minutes, I sensed this track was no fun, and the slope was even steeper at 45 degrees. There were fewer trees I could hold on to. My friend swiftly walked further up and could not see any signs of the waterfalls. It absolutely exceeded my level.
I took a deep breath and decided to walk down. The slope downhill looked so scary that I hardly found any strong trees to support me as I walked down. Many branches were withered and weak, and the grounds were full of loose rocks. I finally fell and slid down for 20 feet, landing my butt on some withered branches. My backpack was my saviour. What a fall!
I tried getting up on the slope and continued walking down, but I slipped a few more times. Luckily, I did not fall again. The 20-minute walk was terrifying, and I struggled to get down the hill.
I asked my friend not to test my fitness level again. The tangelo from my backpack looked juicy after I smashed it with my butt.
The fluffy jacket in my backpack saved my back. No wonder my doctor broke her rib when hiking on the South Island of New Zealand. The medium level is no fun and is considered hard not only by us but Americans, too.
The Kiwis here do not find them too difficult and get used to walking for hours in these steep mountains.
Rangiora
Despite the unfortunate hiking adventure, we went swimming in the pool in Rangiora as planned. The heated pool is not that warm but is fine after warming up with a few laps. It was such an achievement to finish over 10 laps in the 25-metre pool after the fall.
The swimming complex has two training pools, a kid’s pool, and a family hot tub area. I adored the lazy river in the kid’s pool, where the children and I gently rode in circles by low currents. I felt so unrestrained and free.
I wish the pools in Hong Kong had a family tub like here. Even the children could have their own warm tub in the pool area. This integrated layout is uncommon in Asia.
There are reasonably-priced restaurants in Rangiora. My friend and I had dinner in a Moroccan restaurant, where I found the taste to be very similar to Indian dishes.
Agricultural Show
Sheep are my favourite animals. I could not help screaming when I first saw them in the Netherlands. Some Kiwis raise sheep, chickens, or rabbits in their backyards for food. I grew up in a city, and animals are our friends and pets. I could never accept the idea of naming bunnies and sheep, and killing them for the plates served at the dining table. However, poultry is the economic pillar for Kiwis. They emphasize animal welfare and compassion in the food business, and claim that cows and sheep are slaughtered using humane methods.
Poultry can have an impact on the environment and animal poo without treatment pollutes rivers. Hopefully the government will find a way to work with farm operators to minimise such pollution.
Sheep are easily spotted not far from the city of Christchurch, but I still looked for a face-to-face moment with other animals. My friend recalled his fond experience at the Agricultural Show, and therefore urged me to give it a try.
The agriculture show (A&P show) resumed after having a break for two years. It was more than a business fair; it has attractions for families, couples, and many others. Located close to the city centre, the A&P show’s venue was full of cars. Many walked a long way to the show. I queued for 20 minutes to get into the enormous venue.
The outdoor venue is as big as Victoria Park in Hong Kong, full of rides for children, game booths for all ages, performances and competitions of all sorts, displays of machinery, and even model mini-houses.
It was all packed, especially the food stalls. I waited for almost half an hour for churros. I could not see a variety of foods downtown except Rivermarket, so I understand why those stalls were so popular.
This show has put a lot of emphasis on sustainability with its online advertising. The organiser claimed that they sourced local and climate-friendly partners, used recycled and decomposed materials as much as possible, and, of course, donated useful items to the community after the show. It is a popular show for families. I overheard a kid beg for money from his dad: “I don’t have any money for the rides and snacks.” Children may need to negotiate a bit more with parents in order to play as many rides as possible in the Show.
The organiser introduced a connecting bus for the first time running from Bus Exchange to the venue. My friend dropped me off at the entrance.
I decided to find my way home as I could imagine the chaotic arrangement in the parking lot. Sadly, there were no signs to help visitors find the shuttle. We asked as many staff as we could see and walked half an hour to the parking lot.
It seemed like there are shuttle going to other city bus stops. The bus drivers of these routes are very friendly. They just did not know the bus arrangement to the Bus Exchange. Eventually we found out that we had to wait another half an hour for the next bus, which filled up quickly.
Those who had just arrived had to wait for the next bus. Passengers were sorry for the two young people being left behind, and did ask the driver whether she could take two more passengers. It was a tough decision, and the driver had to say no, or else she might get a fine for exceeding the maximum load of the bus. The last shuttle will be at 4 pm. Luckily, I left the show earlier.
Art Galleries and Museums
I visited the Contemporary Art Gallery, the Canterbury Museum, and the Arts Centre. The Canterbury Museum is under renovation but is still open. The exhibits tell the history of Canterbury. Opposite the road is the university’s arts centre.
I realised that staying silent in museums was not necessary. Kiwis stress interaction and critical thinking. Teaching was held in galleries and museums where students could comprehend history more through the canvases and exhibits. They can express their views openly on questions raised by the teachers.
The museums are not crowded, there is no queue to get in, and admission is free.
Christchurch Transitional Cathedral
It is a new cathedral and the only cathedral made of “cardboard”. I can see the rolls of cardboard inside on the walls. The hall can house around 100 seats. Regular worship and performances are held in this Catholic building. Special occasions can also be organised there as a means of fundraising.
I bought hand-made soaps, jams, and a felt cat for my friends in the cathedral’s shop. These lovely items are donated by churchgoers and small businesses and are of high quality.
The cathedral is small. On this sunny day, I went on to enjoy spiritual moments in Latimer Square, which is just across the road. Lying on the grass, reading a book, and chilling out is not bad idea.
Botanic Gardens
Unlike Japanese or Asian gardens, flowers are not meticulously arranged in the parks in New Zealand. Gardeners in Hong Kong always remove the withered leaves and flowers from the flower beds.
Plants are left unrestrained and grow freely here. Different species of flowers, no matter whether they are of complementary colours or not, can stand side by side in their blossoms. Kiwis do not seek perfection but embrace inclusiveness. Chaotic beauty is totally acceptable. Withering is a natural process and can coexist with other flowers in season.
My friend’s gardens are wildly arranged with consideration for the sunlight and personal preferences. I can relate to his idea after visiting the Botanic Gardens.
Rhododendrons, azaleas, bearded irises, and magnolias are commonly seen in late spring. Cabbage trees look like coconut trees, which are gigantic. The Avon River, which runs by the side of the Botanic Gardens, is a friend of the geese family.
Sumner
Sumner is like a holiday town but close enough to commute to work in the city. The beach, the shops, the playground, together with the neatly designed houses on the mountain all make it look like a middle-class neighbourhood. There was no doubt that more people swam and surfed here than in New Brighton. The beach is a little bit more enclosed and friendly.
I love the variety of facilities in the children’s playground and attempted to try moving little steps in a rolling barrel with a child. My steps were not little at all; so the barrel did a big roll and I fell, and so did the child. He was brave though and did not yell at all.
My friend and I walked to the end of the beach and then slowly went up the mountain. It took more than half an hour to reach the top of the mountain, where the scenery was excellent. I kept reminding him not to choose a mountain path that could make me fall again. After all, the cliff is so close to the track.
Tekapo
Finally, it was the day my friend an I set off for excursions. The boot was full, packed with towels, a bodyboard, and chilly bins full of food, snacks, tea, vegetables, and fruits. We stocked up on good bread from an Italian bakery on the way to Tekapo.
What a wonderful, romantic lake for the first stop! There were not any boats or annoying sounds as in Asia.
The day was warm at around 25 °C. The water temperature must be around 20 °C and lower in deeper water.
We drew to the side of the lake without catching sight of many people, but a young lady was reading while sunbathing. I encouraged my friend to swim in the lake. He disregarded the presence of the lady and jumped into the water right away. Obviously, someone screamed so loud once in the cold water. Now I got to understand why swimming in the lake can make you cry for mama.
Mt Cook
We took a break in the cottage in Twizel and enjoyed the wonderful scenery of the snowy mountains there. It was a 40-minute drive to the start of the hiking path to Mt. Cook. There is a hotel close to the hiking path that serves buffet dinner for about 400 HK dollars. There aren’t any other shops or restaurants near the hotel.
The hike was easy — just an hour’s walk to the sightseeing spot where you can see the snowy mountains up close. As the clouds kept drifting, the scenery changed every minute. The snow mountain was hiding and revealed in another minute.
When we tried a slightly different route back, we found an unfamiliar area where people camped at the foot of the mountain. After crossing a lot of long grass, we returned to the city centre of Twizel to enjoy Thai dinner. There are far more choices of restaurants in Twizel than in Tekapo, and the price is reasonable since the area is where the working class lives.
Mt. Tasman is located close to Mt. Cook; the mountain ranges look endless.
Wanaka
Driving from Twizel to Wanaka takes about an hour and a half. Wanaka is a larger and wider lake than Tekapo and a lot more touristy. Strolling around the shops and fancy restaurants can take up hours. I could hardly tell the names of the mountains and lakes in my photo collection after seeing quite a few. They are equally beautiful and calm, with few tourists.
I was more excited to see how the bodysurfing was like. It was a short drive from Wanaka to the River Hawea. At the time we arrived, three young women were showing off their bodysurfing skills.
My friend took a chance to surf with the bodyboard in River Hawea. He started lying on the board in shallow water, paddling with his hands and flowing along with the tiny waves. I could tell it was not an easy attempt to control the board when the water current makes the call.
It was my pleasure to help him keep the towel and slippers. In less than 20 seconds, he passed two small waves from one end to the other. After three attempts, he concluded that his board was not good enough.
I actually found the bodysurfing quite interesting to watch and admired the strength of the lady surfers who could just stand on the board for minutes. After all, it is a game of human versus nature.
What can replenish our energy the best after vigorous sport? An early dinner in mid-afternoon.
We ended up in a cool shop where they sell coffee and healthy food. I also got takeout from the shop for my dinner – pumpkins, peas, and falafel.
#thatwanakatree has become an icon of Wanaka, drive to the left of the lake and have a photo with this willow tree which survived with the flooding. Even a creative director was inspired by the tree to create the property ad below.
Fairlie
We passed through a few small towns, including Fairlie and Geraldine, before reaching Castle Hill. The locals in Fairlie are full of distinct characters, maybe a big rough? We stopped by a second-hand shop whose owner came from the Philippines and married a Kiwi. The couples tried running different businesses and closed a few.
The second-hand shop they owned is slightly away from the town centre. They stock up on all sorts of items that Hongkongers might have thrown in the bin, and the prices are not cheap, As a shop owner, you have to have a treasure-hunting mentality to believe in running such a business. Rent may not be a big concern in a small town.
Geraldine was our next pit stop. I had a mission to look for a good muffin and ended up in an American-style restaurant in which we were served cold muffins. I felt like I was a young student drinking the silly big sized strawberry milkshakes there. I understand why cooking skills are highly valued when living overseas, as you can’t crave good food unless you drive a long way to a good restaurant.
Castle Hill
I was so excited to see those peculiar rocks in Castle Hill. This attraction reminded me of Stonehenge in the UK, but these rock formations are not that mysterious. They should be naturally formed and not rearranged by aliens.
There were no strong winds when I went there. A group of students was learning to climb the rocks. No tourist group was spotted there, but a few families and young individuals.
We stopped here for a little more than an hour. It had been sunny for days, making the excursions more pleasant. However, there was no sign of restaurants or cafes on the way. The food at the convenience store at the petrol station was dry and unappealing. I regretted that I did not buy any meat pies in Fairlie or Geraldine for dinner. My evening in Arthur’s Pass was a bit depressing.
Arthur’s Pass, Moana
There is no wifi reception in the valleys heading to Arthur’s Pass. We had to pass through Mayfield, Mount Somers, and Mount Hutt. After the four-hour drive, a kea tried to welcome us. I was told that these parrots are very clever and curious. They love meat and, in general, will not hurt us.
All restaurants were closed at dawn. There are more motels in the area than shops. After dinner, I went out alone, with a few keas walking behind me. I almost had to cross the road in order to get rid of them. Without a hot meal, I decided not to go hiking in the dark.
I was prepared to discuss with my friend for the breakfast plan the next morning. I need decent food to lift up my spirit. Moana may be the answer. I hesitated with this suggestion but then found out the only coffee shop in the area opened at 8 am. I left the instant chocolate drink behind and rushed to the shop. The choice for bread and pastry is not bad. I bought a pastry, and immediately packed the luggage, and headed to Moana for my second breakfast.
Moana has two restaurants. Both of them were not open until 10 am. I chose the restaurant closer to the lake and ordered a latte and a bowl of chowder. The hot soup was heartwarming, and so were the blue sky and white clouds. The weather forecast continued to be good the next day, so we decided to go further west and booked a cottage for one night in Charleston. The price is slightly more expensive than Twizel’s, but the cottage has a million-dollar sea view, and there is an outdoor bathtub next to the house. Absolutely great value!
Greymouth
A friend introduced me to a small fish and chip store in Greymouth, adding another tick to my wish list on this journey. With our big bag of fish and chips at the pier, the seagulls adored us. Two servings is a lot for two. Here’s what my friend often emphasizes: the importance of food quality. It was worth the wait for freshly deep-fried fish as many shops prepared the fish well ahead of time and fried them again and again.
We enjoyed our lunch a lot and shared the fries with the seagulls, Even the dogs came to join us to have some fun. The owner told us that their dogs could eat fish and chips. Of course, we were happy to share.
Gloria was a happy surprise for us on this journey. Who would have guessed the church was painted pink and became a gay statement in this small town with a population of just over 10,000?
We decided to check out the church ourselves and talked to Sam, the gay artist who bought the church and displayed a range of his artworks and installations. Sam lives in this church with the aim of making Gloria a gathering place to celebrate alternative culture. It is hard to believe that he had the gut to work toward his vision in this unique corner of the world.
Punakaiki
The key attraction on the west coast was Punakaiki National Park. I learned about this place roughly from a guidebook and thought only isolated sedimentary rocks stood there.
With such extensive rock formations, the place attracts many tourists to visit, even on a weekday.
The climate on the west coast is unstable with higher humidity. It rains half the time over the year. I found the humidity level very pleasant, as Hong Kong is more or less the same, maybe with higher humidity.
It was a cloudy day, but the rock formations looked fantastic, a lot better than Castle Hill. The bottom of some rocks was being eroded by constant splashes of seawater, making the rock formations even more spectacular. In 2020, I would have had the chance to see the Benagil Cave in southern Portugal. These pancake rocks are a gift from my trip, and I felt blessed to see them.
There is a shop stocking up on hiking shoes and European shoes in this scenic spot. An unusual place to find inexpensive shoes with many choices The shopkeeper treated a boy nicely and gave him money to get a souvenir coin. I brought a pair of hiking shoes home with me and I was pleased with the cushion of the shoes.
Charleston
Further to the north of the west shore was Charleston. We booked a cottage having a million-dollar beach sea view there. The host used to work and live in Hong Kong some years ago. She baked us some English scones for afternoon tea which tasted wonderful.
We had no more itinerary planned for the day and were happily watching the sunset on the private beach. It was such a poetic, private place. We had thought of collecting mussels at the bottom of some rocks but the size of the mussels was too small and the tide was too high.
My friend suggested that penguins might show up at night as the white marks should be their poo. It was too windy and cold at night. I gave up the thought of checking out penguins. Instead, we took turns enjoying a hot bath outdoors in the dark.
The rocks in the area give a hint of the presence of coal mines in the old days.
Coal mining is not new, but working in the mines is hard and dangerous. The river nearby is black but clear, even fish find freedom in this country, swimming of their free will.
Akaroa
I wanted to do more sightseeing despite the unpleasant weather forecast. After all, I hadn’t taken a long-haul flight in a long time. It was truly fun without worrying about work, and I was lucky to have a local friend drive me around.
I proposed having an overnight stay in Akaroa for one more night, though a day trip could work. I did not mind paying for the B&B as I was leaving early Sunday. The accommodation is located in the city centre, French style. The bedrooms and bathroom are on the ground floor, while the living room and kitchen are located on the first floor. That was the only two-storey house I stayed in on the South Island. Most of the houses are one-storey, without basements. Is there any basement in houses in New Zealand? I guess not.
Our stay in Akaroa was on a Friday and Saturday. It was a popular dating spot for middle-aged and elderly couples in this French town. It was so sweet to see them holding hands. Many relationships start with holding hands, and couples grow old together. I would very much like to blend into this lovely atmosphere, feeling a hand in my hand.
The vacation homes were constructed along the mountains. Only an hour’s drive from Christchurch, there are not many inexpensive B&B options. The harbour is calm, and the bridge at the shore is Swiss-style. I can hear a voice asking me to slow down and just breathe.
On a rainy Saturday, I gave up the thought of visiting the Giants House. The bad weather ruined my enthusiasm to check out this attraction. A few months later, my friend shared with me the story of Giants House. That is the highlight of her day trip to Akaroa.
That Saturday, I was hoping the rain would stop a bit as the weather forecast said. But it did not happen. I missed the last chance to buy souvenirs at the Saturday market as it had to be canceled.
Nevertheless, breakfast and snacks in the areas did not disappoint. Pastries and cakes at The Common are excellent. The small drinking place serving tacos is cool for watching the harbour with a few bites.
Lincoln
I did not fear the attempt to collect some colourful cobblestones at The Birdlings Flat in the rain. See what I got from the shore.
We stopped by Lincoln, a middle-class neighborhood, to visit my friend’s daughter and grandchildren. The supermarket in the area is similar to Great in Hong Kong. We dropped by Riccarton to see if the shops were still open in the evening. Unfortunately, all shops were closed except for the restaurants and Asian stores. I could hardly imagine my friend having the guts to try Chinese soup packs. Hopefully, he will not be intimidated by the bitter taste of the herbal ingredients which are supposed to be nourishing to our body.
I picked the family-run Korean restaurant to have my last dinner. The Korean mother who helped in the kitchen cannot speak Korean. The son is responsible for taking orders. I have mixed feelings about seeing this family working together in the same restaurant. Each family member is supporting one another in a country that is far from their homeland. What does it mean to the son, the mom, and the dad? How does the son feel working in the restaurant instead of pursuing an alternative career?
I took an early flight home the next day. I did not have the chance to see the stars at St. John or visit Queenstown, but my trip was very satisfying Thanks to my friend, I felt my journey was filled with great fun.
epilogue
Carefree, relaxing moments are sources of happiness.
How about hand-picking vegetables from the garden? Forget anger, and worries, and focus on preparing a simple meal for yourself. Enjoying quality time sharing good food with friends is also a very pleasant experience.
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